Returned from Beerhuis Kulminator in Antwerp, possibly the centre of the beer universe. These folks have been cellaring beer for over 40 years. Amongst other things, I tried a 1995 Chimay Grande Reserve - incredibly smooth, missing it's CO2, but with a nice undercurrent of alcohol.
The bar itself is a thing of beauty, with hops growing over the front window and ceiling, crates of Westvleteren stacked next to the front door, the proprietor reading the paper with a magnifying glass, and a couple of cats stalking behind the tables. Oh, and beer paraphernalia EVERYWHERE. Sadly, the couple running the show will likely retire in the next couple of years, and this recent sojourn may have been the last time I visit. This place is categorically imperitive for a serious beer lover while in Europe.