• Welcome to the Green and Gold Rugby forums. As you can see we've upgraded the forums to new software. Your old logon details should work, just click the 'Login' button in the top right.

Cycling

MrTimms

Ken Catchpole (46)
Staff member
I got a sigma BC1009, I think I paid about $60 for it.

It does all the basics:

Actual speed
Average speed
Maximum speed
Trip distance
Comparison of current and average speed
Total distance (not shown while riding)
Riding time
Clock
Total time (Not shown while riding)
 

rugbysmartarse

Alan Cameron (40)
So I am thinking of making the leap from Gym Cyclist to road cyclist. The intent is to ride to and from Work most days, which is about 11kms each way. But I havent ridden a bike since I was about 12, so I figured I could use some advice. Any advice is approciated, such as which bikes to try or avoid, what kit should I have that I wouldn't immediately think of, what to watch out for on the road, riding tips etc?
 

cyclopath

George Smith (75)
Staff member
So I am thinking of making the leap from Gym Cyclist to road cyclist. The intent is to ride to and from Work most days, which is about 11kms each way. But I havent ridden a bike since I was about 12, so I figured I could use some advice. Any advice is approciated, such as which bikes to try or avoid, what kit should I have that I wouldn't immediately think of, what to watch out for on the road, riding tips etc?

Don't listen to Gagger. You do not need CARBON! Landfill materials (steel, aluminium, titanium, scandium and various combinations thereof) can be just fine. I have a 7 year old steel frame, custom built and very light that is barely heavier than most CARBON frames. I would suggest getting someone reasonably knowledgeable to fit you properly to the bike (a poorly fitted bike is like adding several kg of deadweight, and you'll get a sore back / neck / knee(s) / arms or something else) and maybe try to pick up a second hand full bike for less than half some chump paid for it new. Maybe get some straight bars fitted, if only for commuting, as you will find it comfier I reckon. If you become addicted, then look to upgrade down the track. Maybe even to CARBON.
I repeat, Gagger is evil, and clearly on the take from some CARBON fibre extrusion company.
Oh, as for tips:- in Sydney, assume everyone is really trying to kill you, and if they're not, they will be texting / fart-arsing around with their latest phone and will run you over if you give them a chance. WORST drivers I have encountered in terms of bike awareness. Use bike tracks / lanes if at all possible, don't cut between cars in traffic, be glaringly visible, drive your likely route before hand and see what the traps might be for a cyclist, from the car's point of view. Maybe suss out some alternate routes - even if you add a couple of km, it might be safer and more relaxing. And more exercise. 10-15 km will only take 30-40 mins depending on traffic etc...
 

Moses

Simon Poidevin (60)
Staff member
Well as I almost found out on last nights' ride, don't pedal around corners when you're travelling at mach schnell... apparently I was less than a centimetre from the pedal hitting the ground at around 40km/h with a car on my arse
 

cyclopath

George Smith (75)
Staff member
Well as I almost found out on last nights' ride, don't pedal around corners when you're travelling at mach schnell... apparently I was less than a centimetre from the pedal hitting the ground at around 40km/h with a car on my arse

Well, obviously!::)
 

The_Brown_Hornet

John Eales (66)
RSA my (very limited) advice wouldn't be to spend a massive amount on a bike until you get way into it. Nothing worse than an expensive toy gathering dust in the garage. I was in the same situation as you and opted for a flat bar bike. It's basically a road bike with different handlebars and a more comfortable riding position for the non-serious cyclist.

This is what I have and I love it:

http://www.apollobikes.com/bikes10/commuter/allegro

It's not a fancy machine like Cyclo and Gags will have, but it's great for me. I have the biggest frame size because I'm a moderately large bloke. The advice about getting fitted up properly is very good. Riding a bike that is too big or small will just make you hate it. I ride about 150km/week on mine and feel great for it.

As an aside, one of the girls in the office has a fire engine red all-carbon Cannondale which I thought was a pretty serious piece of kit. Must resist urge to go and buy one :)
 

rugbysmartarse

Alan Cameron (40)
thanks guys. ride will be 80% bike path (thank you clover moore) with minor suburban back streets to get to it. I'm going Drummoyne to North Sydney, so figure I can go around the bay and up Lilyfield rd, over the Anzac bridge, bike paths though town, over the Harbour bridge and then I'm pretty much at work. Alternate is that I noticed the footpath along Victoria Rd is bike/ped shared, so this is an option too. Anyone ride this way?

Also, I agree with getting fitted - which are the better bike shops?
 

Gagger

Nick Farr-Jones (63)
Staff member
Not CARBON? Landfill. And in my way.

But seriously, a "Hybrid" (or flatbar) bike is the way to go for initial commuting, as BH and Cyclo suggest.
Avoid buying a mountain bike for the road - too heavy and retarded tyres.

Enjoy! Commuter biking is an excellent way to get your exercise in what otherwise would have been dead time. Plus you save cash and secure our children's futures....
 

Gagger

Nick Farr-Jones (63)
Staff member
Mate who I ride with just got this beaut custom made out of Titanium.

Serotta_Legend_se.jpg


Photo comes from this article written specifically about it

http://www.cyclefit.co.uk/serotta-legend-se-1
 

Joe Mac

Arch Winning (36)
rugbysmartarse

go on to Wiggle.co.uk and buy yourself a road boke. If you know someone in london buy it in pounds and get it shipped or if not, it will be more expensive but they have an Australian link for shipping With the exchange rate the way it is, you will pick up an amazing bike for about AUD$750-1000 (5-600 pounds) and you can just get it shipped over to you.

You would pay about AUD1000 more for the same bike if you buy it here.
 

The_Brown_Hornet

John Eales (66)
Well fellas, some sad news today. My bike is consigned to the scrap heap. It developed a crack right near the weld where the crank is and its terminal. Hopefully Apollo will agree that its a manufacturing defect (the bike is a year old) and replace it. At the moment I'm slumming it on a mates borrowed Cannondale (however will I cope I hear you ask).
 

Gagger

Nick Farr-Jones (63)
Staff member
This is your chance BH - UPGRADE BABY!!

Anyway, after a few weeks on the Canondale you won't go back
 

Reddy!

Bob Davidson (42)
Hey all, I have this really sweet Puch commuter bicycle at my house that I want to do up, it's about 30 years old. Rides beautifully but isn't looking that great these days and parts need replacing eg. rims, brakes, gears maybe, tires.

I was wondering if anyone knows of a place in the Brisbane area that specialises in bicycle restoration? Or somewhere, where I can salvage 2nd hand parts.
 

Ruggo

Mark Ella (57)
Any of you blokes got any good tips to get rid of tailbone soreness from riding? I finally got my deadly treadly up and running but the seat is giving me a sore arse. I haven't really ridden since I was a kid.

Any advice would be much appreciated.
 

Moses

Simon Poidevin (60)
Staff member
Any of you blokes got any good tips to get rid of tailbone soreness from riding? I finally got my deadly treadly up and running but the seat is giving me a sore arse. I haven't really ridden since I was a kid.

Any advice would be much appreciated.
I got one of these: http://www.kathmandu.com.au//60842/Commuter-Seat-Cover.html

As Timmsy says, you could harden up, but I found I was stopping riding cause of the seat, when I really wasn't tired. The gel seat cover, and then for my birthday my wife got me some cycling shorts with a padded bum so now I'm riding on air!
 
Top